Section 4: Lilienfeld to Vienna

When we left Lilienfeld it wasn't actually raining, but the cloud was low so we took a low route and 'saved' a day. We ended up in lovely little Ramseau, and had the best Gasthof meal of the trip (they tend to be simple, hearty, but repetitive).

The forecast for the next day was better, so we chanced things with a last upland path. Alas! Four miles along a ridge at 2,000 feet in rain and cloud, following a small (but thankfully never disappearing) path through pine woods is not a pleasant experience. Just to rub it in, the last mile went up another 1,000 feet, and tantalised us with a series of false summits. The hut at the top was, Heaven be Praised, open and warm, and on the way down the skies cleared for this photo.

After that we were in the WienerWald - lower country, more like the Chiltern Hills near London. On the last day (near Mayerling) we got up early, walked through woods, past the Motorway, through more woods, had our last Gasthof meal (best chocolate cake of the trip, and nice company - we got a round of applause when the other customers realised how far we'd come) - more woods, then vinyards, to Perchtoldsdorf, which turned out to be the Highgate Village of Vienna. It was still only 2pm, so we decided to go for the centre.

And we arrived at the Schonbrunn Palace at 5pm. (Di here now). Although already tired when we reached the outskirts, the magnet of reaching our goal was so strong that we decided to continue. Having agreed that getting to Schonbrunn was a good end point, we stepped out through the main roads round the edge of Vienna, and were pleased to get to the Tirolean Park and have a splendid view of the Palace. It was a great feeling to touch the building and realise we'd walked 250 miles, to the place where the six year old Mozart played to Maria Theresia, and sat on her lap and asked her to marry him.

We're feeling a bit of anti-climactic now, with the end of the walk, but this afternoon we're going to visit various places associated with Mozart around the city, and then tomorrow (Sunday) night we get on the train home, and back to London life, probably by Monday evening. After that Jeremy will do a final post on the trip and the fund. Thanks for reading this!

Section 3: Waidhoven to Lilienfeld

(I'm actually typing this from a very posh hotel near Mayerling; couldn't get Internet access in Lilienfeld. It seems a big town to us, but a sign says the population is just over 3,000.)

We left Waidhoven in gloom, but not actually raining; on our rest day it rained all day. We arrived in Lillienfeld in a brief period of sunshine before the rain resumed - and again it rained all our day off. The weather is generally bad, but only one day of this section was in complete rain. Then we pick low paths, or walk along roads being splashed by cars. That's the worst option, but also an efficient one; we're a day ahead of schedule! And there's always a warm Gasthof at the end, even if it can take a while to find... a shower, a meal and some beers and we're ready for another day.

We did go South towards the bigger mountains. Pastoral Austria is beautiful, but the cowpats and barking dogs can get a bit much, so we spent two lovely days going from Gresten to Gaming to Puchenstuben along high-ish paths, with great views to the bigger stuff. At one point, on a col, the entire path was covered in fallen trees! Luckily a German couple showed us a way round. In general we have met hardly anyone - perhaps only two or three mega-walkers like us.

But we never leave Mozart, and Di might do this next bit.....
Yes, here I am - we met some very helpful people in the Tourist Office in Gaming, once they'd sorted out our accommodation, the Chief Clerk said he had a tip for us: the organ in the Gaming Church had been bought from Ybbs, where Mozart had played in it! So here it is. We got into the Church, but the organ loft was locked, so I couldn't play it. But it was nice to think that he had. Jeremy said to the Chief Clark that we'd seen the smiling face of Austria, though he was sure it also had its dark side. He replied, with a laugh "yes, we keep it well hidden!" Another aspect of Austria is the German language - 'am bach' means on the stream, so I keep seeing place names like mine, including one Dambach, and another Schrambach. No I don't have any German ancestry. Now back to Jeremy...

One day between Gaming and Puchentsuben, going by a stream, we came to a waterfall. Some waterfalls are a bit boring, but this one was great, because after we came across it, the path went right up it, and then crossed above it. (Click the picture for the large version, you can just see a metal bridge at the top.)We still have lovely surprises every day, though this may change the nearer we get to Vienna.

Which comes next. We've decided to walk right into the centre, suburbs don't count. Will we do it? Yes!

Section 2: Ebensee to Waidhoven

We're having a day off in Waidhoven, it's raining and it's COLD. It rained all day yesterday too. We've got over the excitement of realising that we can do this thing, and are now in the actual doing of it. These images were added in London, as the local hotel reception PC wouldn't recognize my camera. (It proved quite difficult to get to a computer in rural Austria.)

The big lakes have gone now, small ones only. (Still beautiful, though.) There are still mountains always to the South, but when we take a more northerly route, which we do when the clouds are low, they get smaller, and sometimes have rounded tops with cows on them. There is lots of walking through woods, some lovely with wooded glades, some a bit dull, like Forestry Commission.

The Gasthofs are lovely - big houses with lots of flowers, balconies, etc - but sometimes they are hard to find, and we have had to take a taxi or bus down the road off the trail. Then next morning back to the trail. Same place of course - purists that we are - but it was hard one morning explaining to a non english-speaking driver why we didn't want him to drive us any further, but preferred to walk!

They are also puzzled about the sponsorship aspect. That word isn't in our Lonely Planet phrasebook, though we do have the German for 'I want to see a lawyer' should that be necessary. Also, I don't think they have so much sponsored events as we do.

Talking of sponsorship - the money for the Microscope has already been raised. The extra is for ancillary equipment such as a pupil measuring instrument. Diana's surgeon (who has incidentally contributed to the Fund) has said that on consulting with the nurses, they said that what they really wanted was a Bladder Scanner, so they could avoid catheterizing patients unnecessarily. Not as glamorous as looking in Pupils! But I imagine that you are, like me, happy for the money to go where the professionals want it. The only stipulation I would make is that the decision should be made by people on the front line, i.e. Doctors and Nurses, rather than by people sitting behind a desk.

Di here - I saw the word for sponsorship on a poster: Co-operationpartner! However, I've been thinking more about Mozart, partly as we listened to our version of the Concerto No 21 (K467), so I sing bits to myself as we walk. Also, he wrote about what a sore bum he got, travelling on coaches for hours on end. My bum isn't sore, but at the end of each day my feet are - I don't think I'm thumping my steps, but the sheer number of steps each day just is a lot for my soles to cope with. Once I've showered and given them a bit of a massage they're usually OK. And, as I struggle with very primitive German, I wonder if it's the language he spoke. Having taken the sun for granted to begin with, this cold is a bit of a shock to the system; however they still call it summer here.

Back to Jeremy, and back to our walk. We will succeed, as long as we don't fall ill, over, or something gives way. Always a possibility! Later this week we have to decide whether to take a low or high route, which will depend on the weather and our taste for adventure! Next planned rest day is Lilienfeld in about a week.

Section 1: Salzburg to Ebensee

Wow! Golly Gosh! Cripes! and Yaroo! Perhaps I resort to this language because we're having a Boy's Own Adventure here. (And Girl's too, of course!). This is us at the Hotel Post, Ebensee after six days walking. Click this or any other photo for the full, wrinkly version.

On a walk like this, what we do every day is walk. We stop for food, drinks, beds - but they are all breaks in this nomadic existence. But we're not slumming it - the food is good and the beds are comfy. We're "bourgeois nomads". And the country is just gorgeous, it uplifts the soul. This pic is Fuschl, and everything in the Salzkammergut is more beautiful than it should be. And if something dirty appears, a man comes along and cleans it up.

And there are Ups and Downs - both physical and emotional. This mountain is Schafberg; a beautiful mountain, seen first from the bottom and then from our Hotel room at the top. All that a mountain should be - pine forests, upland pastures, and of course places for drinks.

But after that we tried to traverse the Hollengebirgemassif - horrible name for a horrible mountain! We walked and scrambled up one end for about five hours to reach the Hochlecken Hutte. I was so exhausted I could only drink gallons of orange soda - couldn't even manage a goulash soup, which those who know me will agree is very unusual. When we saw it was billed as another five hours to the next hut we bailed out, and descended 3,000 feet to go round the side. I've started a 'Stress Level' rating for each day, out of ten. It's a complex calculation of physical and emotional effort counting plus, and exhilaration and wonder counting minus. That day came to 9.5; had it been 10, I wouldn't be here writing this!

I took just one photo that day, of Di reaching the hut. It just looks perfectly ordinary. The best piece of music I've found of communicating the actual feelings we've been going through is the Strauss Alpine Symphony. We listened to it the other night on my iPod, and I find myself humming appropriate bits at different psarts of the walk, depending on what's happening. We haven't had a storm yet - the weather is being very kind - but I've experienced confusion, excitement, pleasure, confidence, doubt, exhaustion and joy, and they are all in that piece. We've got the cheapo Naxos version, which is basically fine, though the cowbells are wrong.

Not forgetting Mozart, weve been visiting him and his Mum at St Gilgin. I'll talk more about him next time; I'm trying to get him on the EtherealNet, but for now that's it.
The next step is to Waidhoven an der Ybbs. Seven days, and I'll try to write again. Grüss Gott!

Getting Started

OK, I know it's corny, but here we are outside the Mozart Birth House.

There IS something corny about Salzburg; yes, it's pretty, but it's like a Museum, and a not very well curated one at that. Most of the material in the birth house covers things he actually did in Vienna. Mozart is their cash cow, and they are milking him for all they are worth.

The other exhibition is better - this is the one in the house he lived for four years or so - and I did learn some things about his travels. He spent one third of his life travelling, and covered many thousands of kilometers. And his travels were so much more adventurous than ours; he once travelled through the mountains to Italy in the winter, saying that all they had at the inns was potatoes and broccoli. In our trip, the worst thing that's happened so far is that the Salzburg hotel wasn't where we thought it was - hardly the stuff of major drama!

Nevertheless, this is, as someone described it, an endeavour, and we begin it tomorrow morning.

This is Di - in the second Museum they read some of his letters written while travelling and he said what a lot of fun he was having; so that's a challenge for us, to have fun too. And he makes his letters so entertaining - I don't know if we'll be able to keep ours similarly fun and engaging. You'll see, as we stride out....